The Y2K Cookbooks by Dede Wilson

The year 2000 has not brought us any breakthroughs in the world of cookbooks, in terms of particulars, however, and it is a big BUT, the publishing world has changed tremendously and that, in turn, has changed what we are seeing on the shelves. Huge mergers have taken place, there are less large individual publishing houses, and they are publishing books much more conservatively. What this boils down to is money, of course. They are publishing books that they know will bring in the bucks. But for us, the cookbook reading public, this is not necessarily a bad thing. The downfall is that there seems to be a bit less variety, in terms of scope. But on the other hand, some great books have appeared to fill our shelves with great new recipes and ideas. Here are my fav new dessert books.

Some familiar names have cropped up and Nick Malgieri is one of them. Malgieri has a large following amongst us baker types and his books always deliver. His newest one is Cookies Unlimited (HarperCollins, 2000. $35). I happen to like books that take one subject and explore it thoroughly. If I want to bake a cookie, I know I can turn to these pages and find the perfect one. There are 14 chapters with obvious ones liked Bar Cookies, Drop Cookies and Rolled Cookies, but we also get whole chapters on Piped Cookies, Macaroons, Fried Cookies, Crackers and Savory Cookies and Wafers. There is even a chapter on Decorating Projects, which details how to make Holiday Cookie Trees, Easy Graham Cracker Holiday Houses and, of course, Gingerbread Dough with patterns for a "cottage". Try the Lemonade Cookies (what a pucker!), Sour Cream Fudge Cookies, Champagne Fingers, Gingery Macadamia Biscotti, and Parmesan and Paprika Palmiers. There are also plenty of international specialties like Cucudati (Sicilian Fig filled cookies), Biscotti di Vino (Red Wine Cookies), and Anisbroetli (Swiss Anise Cookies). The book includes color photos of many of the recipes. How about organizing a cookie swapping party?

While we are on the subject of desserts, let¹s talk about Marcel Desaulniers. Following up his Death by Chocolate and Death by Chocolate Cookies is the addition of Death by Chocolate Cakes (HarperCollins, 2000. $35). Once more Desaulniers delivers a book that is over the top, and I mean that in a good way. There is a full-page color photo of every cake, just begging us to dig into the likes of Chocolate Porto Enchantment Cake with its chocolate, port and fig buttercream, Chocolate Tender Passion with its chocolate cake, passion fruit "nucleus" and raspberry/passion fruit sauce, and Mocha Mud Cake with Espresso Chocolate Chunk Mud Slide (whew, sign me up!)

Christopher Kimball of Cook¹s Illustrated fame offers up The Dessert Bible (Little, Brown and Company, 2000, $29.95). Like the magazine, the premise is that each recipe has been tested and re-tested so that you get good results. The good news is that Kimball is a perfectionist. The not-so-good news is that you may not always agree with his taste. But more often than not, your baked goods will come out wonderfully. Try the Coconut Macaroon Brownies, Master Recipe for Foolproof Handmade Pie Dough, Pears Poached in Sherry with Ginger, Burnt Sugar Ice Cream, Souffléed Lemon Custard and Moist, Thick Peanut Butter Cookies. There are also sections on Tips, Techniques and Shortcuts, Kitchen Equipment Buyer¹s Guide, Ingredient Taste Tests and Ratings and Restaurant Desserts at Home.

Nancy Silverton just came out with Nancy Silverton¹s Pasties from La Brea Bakery (Villard, 2000, $35). This book has Nancy written all over it; the desserts are straightforward and full in flavor and they work as promised. If you like breakfast pastries, there is a huge section just on donuts, including Devil¹s Food Spudnuts and Apple Fritters. Then there is the actual Morning Pastries chapter with Twice-baled Sour Cherry Brioche and Espresso Wheels, which are croissant dough embellished with coffee, brown sugar, cinnamon and bittersweet chocolate (someone make these for me, please). Try the savory Country Feta Pies and Asparagus-Egg Pie with Potato Crust; the section on Cobblers, Crisps and Crumbles in chock full too. In the Tarts chapter find Black Currant Silk Tart and Florentine Wedges (like Florentine cookies in a crust). There are quick breads too; the only thing you won¹t find are fussy cakes, but they aren¹t missed. There are also several candy recipes including homemade marshmallows. I made the Chocolate-Dipped Candied Nuts for the holidays. You dip individual nuts (I used hazelnuts) in caramel, then in tempered bittersweet chocolate and then roll them in cocoa. A bit of work, but a high "that¹s incredible" factor. She has a recipe for Iced Raisin Squares in the Cookies chapter that look just like the ones my Nana used to serve. They have fluted edges, are somewhat flat and really chewy. This will be the next recipe I try and I can already see that this book will become one that I reference in the future.

P.S. I recently picked up a first edition James Beard Delights and Prejudices that had never been opened, for $10 at a local used-book store. Haunt those stores! You never know what you¹ll find.